Untable

This cozy, Thai newcomer in Cobble Hill lists a “What the Hell” fried rice on the menu with 12 chili symbols. True to its name, the entrée is ferociously spicy, but this restaurant is so much more than a fiery dare. Entrees are where chef Rachanon Kampimarn shines brightest as he takes core flavors and delivers them with a certain level of flair. The soupless khao soi with beef tossed in a Chiang Mai-style curry is arguably the most successful riff on the menu, followed closely by a very light yet bold green curry that comes paired with a strikingly tender grilled chicken thigh and a bowl of purple rice berry. Pay close attention to specials: Fried branzino with fried garlic and chili sauce was a bone-in affair worth all the fuss and more.