Jingyi (Liulichang East Street)

This small, obscure shop in an alley features an understated grey-brick façade and pared-down décor. The calligraphic menu is short but sweet, heavy on river fish and home-style cooking. Try their braised tofu with fish roe, or hot and sour young lotus root with chicken gizzards. Round it out with grass jelly in Osmanthus honey, or the piping-hot egg-drop glutinous rice wine (in winter). Seats are limited, so come early or expect to wait in line.