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If you’re not staying at the Hotel Xcaret, be sure to devote extra time to arrive at this restaurant, as it involves some navigation. However, once you’ve found it, you’re in for a treat. The cuisine has a definite French bent, which is perhaps no surprise given Chef Carlos Gaytán’s training, but there is nonetheless a confident use of distinctly Mexican flavors and ingredients. This is cooking with a clear sense of identity and strong technique, and noteworthy for bold, creative flavor combinations. The mushroom beignet decorated with a frilly crisp of cauliflower in a creamy truffle and mint sauce is a standout, as is the seared filet mignon with crispy potato mille-feuille garnished with house-cured ikura. Even the palate cleanser, a rosemary ice cream set on pearls of honeydew and cantaloupe, is memorable. Choose the wine pairing to learn more about Mexican wines.